#Unprocessed FAQ: Sugar & Sweeteners

September 26, 2012 10:19 am
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As of this morning, over 3,000 people have now taken the October Unprocessed challenge!  Incredible!  If you haven’t taken the pledge yet, please do it today. (If you already eat this way all the time, take the pledge and show your support! And if you think it’s too daunting, how about just for two weeks? Or even a day? Do what you can, and take charge of your health!) … We’ve got a lot of momentum, and this is turning into something really powerful. Keep it up! (and tell your friends!)

I’ve been getting a lot of questions about sugar and sweeteners, and whether or not they pass the Kitchen Test. In the past years of the challenge, the consensus seemed to be that date sugar, evaporated cane juice, raw/unfiltered honey, and maple syrup would all be acceptable sweeteners. An approximation of Turbinado and Muscovado sugars could probably be made at home, too, though the current industrial process to make them is probably a little bit different than what you’d be able to do at home.

Ultimately, sugar is one of those gray areas where you’ll need to figure out where it makes sense to draw the line for yourself (for artificial sweeteners, it’s much more of a no-brainer). Below are some more thoughts on a few of the most common ones, and if you want more details, check out my post on various sugars.

“Sugar”

Usually, the term “sugar” refers to bleached table sugar, those fine-white granulated crystals that come from sugar cane or sugar beets. The bleaching is done with sulfur dioxide, an ingredient that hopefully isn’t in your pantry.

The terms “sugar,” “granulated sugar,” “cane sugar,” “pure cane sugar,” “beet sugar,” and “table sugar” all refer to the bleached stuff.  So if you just see any of those on the ingredient list, it’s probably that (though the only way to know for sure is to ask the company).

Verdict?  Regular sugar doesn’t pass the kitchen test, but… some folks make exceptions for sugar — simultaneously making an effort to reduce their sugar consumption throughout the month. Sounds like a good idea to me!

Brown Sugar

Regular “Brown Sugar” (the kind you get in the box at the grocery store) is usually just refined table sugar with a small amount (3.5% to 6.5%) of added molasses (which is a byproduct of the sugar-making process in the first place)… but since it goes through the refining/bleaching process first, it doesn’t pass the kitchen test.

Verdict? Unprocessed Fail.

“Raw” Brown Sugars (Turbinado, Demerara, Muscovado)

I think it would be possible to make something similar to these sugar crystals at home, if you had some sugar cane stalks ready to go.  Although there are a couple of steps in the commercial process that you couldn’t do, I’m guessing you could still get the crystals if you’re patient enough (perhaps a countertop food dehydrator would help evaporation).

I’ve seen many articles refer to these sugars as “unrefined” or “raw,” and that’s a bit misleading. They may be raw if they haven’t been heated, but they’re certainly not “unrefined” — they are simply less refined than other crystalline sugars. They start with sugar cane, extract the juice, then heat it to evaporate the water. Once the sugar crystallizes, it is often spun in a centrifuge (hence the name turbinado) to further dry the sugar and remove some impurities.  (Demerara sugar is similar, but is originally named for the Demerara colony in Guyana.  It’s now produced in Mauritius.)

Muscovado sugar (also known as “Barbados Sugar”) is similar, but is dried without using a centrifuge.  Of these choices, Muscovado is likely to be the least processed and most likely to pass the kitchen test.

Verdict? Shoot for Muscovado if you can find it. Beyond that, you’ll need to decide what’s right for you.

Honey

When it comes to unprocessed sweeteners, honey is one of my favorites. It’s important to note that some brands will process the honey and strip it of some of its nutrients. If you can find a good “raw” honey, it’ll be the closest you can find to what you’d get if you actually kept bees in your own backyard.

My favorite brand so far is Really Raw — it’s a creamy, rich honey that even has bits of pollen and honeycomb floating on the surface.  (The downside is that it’s quite expensive.)

Verdict? Raw honey passes the test easily, the more refined brands are better than table sugar and I’ll leave it to you to decide if that’s okay.

Maple Syrup

Maple syrup is my other sweetener of choice (though I still consume it in very small amounts!). Made from the sap of maple trees (the sap is collected and then boiled down), the process is fairly similar today to many years ago. Just be sure you’re getting real, 100% maple syrup — “Aunt Jemima” doesn’t count.

Verdict? Yep, Maple Syrup is good-to-go for October.

Agave

Often called “Agave Nectar” (thus giving it a more healthful tone), this sweetener comes from several species of agave plant.

I’ve heard people sing agave’s praises, specifically thinking it’s significantly less-processed than other sweeteners. That may or may not be true, as the sugar is extracted and processed through a few different methods, depending on the type of plant. It always requires more processing than honey, too.

Verdict? I’m pretty sure you couldn’t make agave syrup at home.

Brown Rice Syrup

Brown Rice Syrup is created by soaking/cooking brown rice with enzymes (usually from dried barley sprouts — meaning: barley malt) to break down the starches into accessible sugars.  The liquid is then strained off and reduced to a syrup. It may also be produced by cooking brown rice flour (or brown rice starch) with enzymes — so your mental picture of simply boiling a pot of brown rice isn’t necessarily accurate.

As a sidenote, brown rice syrup has a “health halo” surrounding it because it’s made with brown rice (this has become a big pet peeve of mine). Don’t be fooled: It’s still concentrated sugar.

Verdict? I don’t think you could make brown rice syrup at home, either.

Stevia

Real, honest-to-goodness stevia is just the leaf of the stevia plant. If you can find that (or grow your own), or can find a powder that’s truly just the ground-up leaves, it’ll pass the test.

But the name-brand white powders? You couldn’t make those at home. Here’s a great post from last year’s challenge about Stevia, Purevia, and Truvia.

Verdict? Real stevia is okay, but most of the stuff you can find at the store is not.

Artificial Sweeteners

I may be pointing out the obvious, but you couldn’t make saccharin, sucralose (Splenda), aspartame, Nutrasweet, Equal, acesulfame potassium, xylitol, erythritol, neotame, or any other of these kinds of sugar substitutes at home.

Verdict? Über-processed!

I’m sure there are plenty of questions, as I’m just scratching the surface here — so let’s keep the conversation going in the comments below!

And here are some of my previous posts on sugar:

“Sugar” Image © 2006 Pay No Mind, used under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic license.

39 Comments on "#Unprocessed FAQ: Sugar & Sweeteners"
  1. Comment left on:
    September 27, 2012 at 8:18 am
    Sara says:

    We plan on using a lot of fruit to sweeten but I use a fair amount of molasses and you didn’t exactly talk about it. Does molasses pass the kitchen test? I never gave it much thought and it’s one thing I use to give a baked good the taste of sugar without putting any in.
    For those who are diabetic – my mom is and she uses nothing artificial. She sweetens with a touch of honey or fruit and molasses. She has good results from it and they are unprocessed.

    • Comment left on:
      September 27, 2012 at 8:45 am
      Andrew says:

      I think unsulphered molasses probably passes the kitchen test. From Wikipedia:

      “To make molasses, the cane of a sugar plant is harvested and stripped of its leaves. Its juice is extracted usually by crushing or mashing, but also by cutting. The juice is boiled to concentrate it, which promotes the crystallisation of the sugar. The result of this first boiling and of the sugar crystals is first molasses, which has the highest sugar content because comparatively little sugar has been extracted from the source. Second molasses is created from a second boiling and sugar extraction, and has a slight bitter tinge to its taste.
      The third boiling of the sugar syrup yields blackstrap molasses, known for its robust flavor.

  2. Comment left on:
    September 27, 2012 at 4:13 pm
    Susan says:

    We only eat raw honey in our home. Buy it from a bee keeper who sells little bottles. We buy a five gallon bucket of plain honey and a five gallon bucket of very gooey buckwheat honey. I like them mixed and he likes it just as buckwheat its too strong for me. But that is the only sweetener is our home.

  3. Comment left on:
    September 27, 2012 at 5:15 pm
    Sandyfeet says:

    My husband is not the most healthy eater in the world, but he will not touch HFCS with a ten foot pole. He really reads labels on this one.

  4. Comment left on:
    September 27, 2012 at 5:18 pm
    Liz says:

    My dad bought me the best present ever….A Stevia plant! I’ve had it for two months…and I haven’t touched it…now I have some reason to! It now goes in my coffee!!

  5. Comment left on:
    September 27, 2012 at 5:32 pm
    Ree says:

    Ok so I’m new to this whole experience and excited to try it but I’m wondering as I do a lot of baking and cooking from scratch what can I use instead of sugar for my Cakes, Muffins etc ????

    • Comment left on:
      September 27, 2012 at 7:55 pm

      Ree,

      Honey works well in baked goods, although you usually have to up the dry ingredients a little bit (if the original recipe calls for white flour and sugar, I do an equal substitution of white wheat flour and honey, since the denseness of the flour balances out the liquid of the honey.) Muscovado is a solid and can be substituted for sugar, although you will probably want to use slightly less (I aim for 2/3 cup of Muscovado for every cup of sugar.)

    • Comment left on:
      September 27, 2012 at 8:45 pm
      Midge says:

      Hi, Ree. Give coconut sugar a whirl, you can pretty much substitute one for one. Just keep in mind it has a darker color and can affect light-colored baked goods.

  6. Comment left on:
    September 28, 2012 at 8:10 am
    Doug says:

    Great post guys! We will be extending this challenge to all our readers. No candy corn this year lol

  7. .
    September 28, 2012 at 1:43 pm

    [...] mentioned on the blog, sugar is an issue for many people who attempt to eat only unprocessed [...]

  8. .
    September 28, 2012 at 6:44 pm

    [...] October Unprocessed right around the corner (it starts Monday, people…go sign up!) and since Andrew did a great post on sugars and sweeteners just the other day, I was inspired to get going on my [...]

  9. Comment left on:
    September 29, 2012 at 5:50 am
    Juli says:

    I find that using local honey helps with allergies. It has something to do with the bees using the same plants that are in your environment.

  10. Comment left on:
    September 30, 2012 at 1:54 pm
    dy says:

    We just try to watch how much sugar goes into things – my husband cannot digest even minute amounts of molasses, so I’m really leery of most of the “raw” sugars, and he has oral and sinus allergy reactions to honey and maple syrup. (Oh, and if you have hay fever, carefully check your reactions if you switch from other sweeteners to raw, local honey! It sounds like a very wonderful thing to do, but our local bees feed on the cedar pollen, and we both look [and feel] like we’re dying of bad colds all thru cedar-pollen season, so . . . )
    About a year ago, I started obsessively reading labels for HFCS, and either buying jam with just “sugar” on the label, or making my own . . . which now has to wait until I find a U-Pick farm with decent strawberries . . . .

  11. .
    October 3, 2012 at 12:08 am

    [...] more questionable ingredients to avoid, check out this list of food additives and a list about sugar and substitutes from Eating [...]

  12. .
    October 3, 2012 at 10:21 am

    [...] in the Raw (a sugar I thought was better than granulated, white sugar, but really isn’t. See here.) for the white sugar, and whole wheat flour (because it’s all I had) for the cake flour. I [...]

  13. Comment left on:
    October 8, 2012 at 6:12 am
    Jolene says:

    Made homemade applesauce this weekend and sweetened it with boiled cider. It’s so apple-y that you wouldn’t be able to use it to sweeten everything, but it was perfect in the applesauce.

  14. Comment left on:
    December 10, 2012 at 11:47 am
    Carol says:

    How about rating the artificial sweeteners? I use a little xylitol in my coffee. It is 40% of the calories of sugar, doesn’t raise the blood sugar, and I need that. Our school nutritionist says that xylitol actually hardens the enamel on your teeth. So, what’s wrong with it? It comes from a natural, organic source.

  15. Comment left on:
    February 27, 2013 at 8:54 am
    Rachel says:

    I’ve started using maple syrup for 90% of my sweet cooking. It’s fantastic. Just made BBQ sauce with it. Or in carrot cake. Or porridge… There are a few recipes where it wouldn’t quite fit, but that what the occasional cheat it for.

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